We all daydream of finding a beautiful island where we can forget all the hustle and bustle of our daily life. One where the weather is always perfect, the locals friendly and the water crystal clear. And if you are like us here at StingRay, you daydream about fishing. Big fish, plenty of fish.
Recently we returned from an eight-day trip to San Salvador, Bahamas and I can say I fell in love with the place. Not only did it meet all of my daydreaming expectations but also exceeded it in every aspect. Quiet, friendly, beautiful and with an abundance of fish…big fish!
Our quest started with an invitation from our own Captain Marvin. Marvin spent the summer chartering the Ms. T out of San Salvador and was having a great time catching big blue marlins on a daily basis (before he got a mild case of Ciguatera, but that is another story), and was ready to take the boat back to the States so we (John, William and my nephew Pete) figured that he needed company.
Sometimes the stars align and a good plan comes perfectly together. A casual mention to my neighbor, bush pilot and avid angler Jeff Khuel and he quickly volunteered to fly us over for the price of a meal for his Pelican Flyer, a beautiful Aztec twin engine that he keeps in better than new condition and flies with his wife Kim, a United Airlines pilot. Bottom line, we hitched a ride to San Sal direct and in style. Two and a half hour ride in a perfect clear day and we arrived ready for action.
San Sal is far from what most tourists experience as the Bahamas. There are no trinket shops, no fancy restaurants, no casinos, and no traffic. Internet service is unpredictable at best and cell service works most of the times, but only if you have a Bahamian service or AT&T. San Sal is definitely laid back so do not expect any big town action. Friendly locals are always ready to help you and share stories, pristine beaches, great fishing flats and blue water at your doorsteps.
BLUE MARLIN IN THE MORNING AND BONEFISH IN THE AFTERNOON
Blue water fishing is literally at your doorsteps. It takes less than 15 minutes to navigate out of the marina and reach the fishing grounds. Every day we saw plenty of birds circling the tunas and although we were there for the big blues, we caught our share of tunas and dorados. There was no rush to leave early in the morning and in most days we left the marina at 9 or 10 AM, returning by 2 or 3 in the afternoon after catching our daily blue. The rest of the day was occupied by swimming in the crystal clear waters, bone fishing the flats, diving for conch, casting from our own beach, or simply hanging around and relaxing.
I must admit that after the second day we all slowed down to island pace. The great atmosphere and friendliness of the locals made us feel welcomed. One night we attended a community function held to raise funds to help a cancer victim, many days we enjoyed a great meal prepared by our host Hilton Ferguson, owner of the Sands Residence Hotel or his cousin and assistant Peggy. We spent a few late nights at the Back-A-Yard, a colorful hang out bar/restaurant with reasonably priced food and drink that doubles as youth hall and de-facto YMCA during the day.
We departed San Sal relaxed but with a great deal of sadness. In our hearts, we all wanted to stay and quit our day jobs but duty called. A six-hour boat ride to Nassau for an overnight and another seven hours to Stuart the next day and we were back. But not for long.
We have the fortune to fish many places around the world but we now consider San Sal one of the best places anywhere. Closer to home, unspoiled, pristine and friendly. San Sal is such a great destination that we are committed to share it with our friends and customers. Beginning in February, we will book trips to San Sal. The winter Wahoo run is fantastic and although big blue marlins are always present, the bite accelerates in late May. Stay tuned to more details.
SAN SALVADOR ISLAND
It is claimed that Christopher Columbus made his first landfall on San Salvador. San Sal is home to many monuments, ruins and shipwreck sites that directly reflect its rich history. It has miles of pristine and secluded beaches, and a crystal-clear sea that gives divers visibility of up to 150 feet. Sparkling lakes cover the interior of the island and tidal flats full of bonefish.
There are daily flights from the US via Bahamasair (Nassau) and Spirit Air flies weekly from Fort Lauderdale. There is a long runway airport capable of handling commercial jets and unbelievably, you can fly direct to Paris, thanks to the Club Med that can be found on the north end of the island.
By boat, you can make the trip in two days. Day one arrive in Nassau and stay overnight with a second leg via the ship channel. Look for lobsters in the shallow coral reefs for an added bonus.
WHERE TO STAY AND WHAT TO DO
We like the Sands Residence Hotel owned by Hilton Ferguson, a true island entrepreneur and overall good guy. The Blowing Rock Hotel next to the Sands is another choice but we found it dated, tired and needing a lot of TLC. You can contact the Sands at 242.331.2254 or http://ex7.myemailhosting.com/owa/redir.aspx?C=b14f4df07df7467481a5753103a036ff&URL=mailto%3asansal4%40yahoo.com.
The Sands is in the process of opening a new restaurant on-premises. Meanwhile, Hilton can arrange for meals or you can walk over to the Blowing Rock’s restaurant, or the adjacent bar operated by Peaches, a great lady that can always prepare local dishes on demand. Another favorite restaurant of ours is the Paradis Restaurant located close to the airport.
The Sands mini apartments are equipped with a full kitchen and we found a good assortment of groceries at the local market. They were all reasonably priced by Bahamian standards.
As I mentioned, there are no casinos or big entertainment in town, but you can visit the famous Back-A-Yard, a popular hangout for the locals. Do not be afraid of pulling a chair and joining in a game of loud dominoes or try your skill at backgammon. Write your name and memorable quote on the bar, eat some good local fare or simply watch TV.
For fishing the flats get in touch with Abby, a local guide that can put you on 10 lbs bonefish or arrange a conch snorkeling trip to the ‘keys’, a group of small rocks on the south end of the island.
I am told that there are many places to explore around the island, including the ruins of a real pirate’s castle. It seems like John Watling, a 17th century pirate made this island his home until he died in 1681. It is also generally believed that Captain Kidd’s famous treasure is buried somewhere in the island.
ISLAND COLOR
The island also has its own in-residence troubadour. Pop is a feature around the airport as the scheduled flights arrive. The rest of the day, you can find him at Paradis or at the marina. He will customize a ballad to match the occasion, including the release of your first marlin, your birthday or just your first San Sal hangover. Observe his trademark shoes, they are perfectly unmatched for your enjoyment.
Visit Kenny the Carver for some unique and fantastic work of art. Visit him early because he does not carry inventory. Each piece is handcrafted in 2-3 days and will be ready before your departure. Just ask around and he will come to you with a sample or two.
FOR BLUEWATER FISHING
Contact our store or Captain Marvin directly. We will happily book your charter and arrange for accommodations. As I mentioned, we will be promoting packaged charter trips soon and if you are interested, I recommend you send me an email or contact me via Facebook to have priority booking. We expect prices to be reasonable and all-inclusive.
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